Men’s formal jacket is an engineered product which is fashioned to sculpt the body into a more flattering shape. It is a niche product and only few manufacturing facilities have the competency in manufacturing them. The operation breakdown of a high-end formal jacket can sometimes involve around 150 operations, and each operation requires special equipment not only in sewing but also for in-line pressing (either for better and precise sewing or 3D shaping of the garment components). Unlike other garments where pressing happens only after completion of sewing, formal jacket requires pressing in-between sewing operations. One could say that the price the factory would fetch depends on how precise the finishes had been and how well it could shape the jacket. The key differentiator between in-line and end-line pressing of jacket is that in-line pressing is happening at individual component stage, whereas end-line pressing happens after complete jacket is sewn. In the two-part article series by Team StitchWorld, in-line pressing of jacket has been discussed in the first part while end-line pressing will be highlighted in the second part.
The technologies used in finishing of suits start from basic single flat surface buck aided by iron. This is the cheapest option, limited to use with certain bespoke tailors, and is a compromise for ironing three-dimensional shapes of various components of jacket. The three-dimensional buck presses are precise functional forms and are used for retaining the shape of the garment. The buck shapes are even different to handle the left and right side parts of the garment since they are mirror image to each other and hence not the same in their structuring, requiring differently shaped bucks for each side. Both the bucks can be placed in a single machine or mounted on two separate machines for even more quality output. One can decide on the kind of quality the company wishes to make and for whom, and can then re-engineer the entire line with different technology options available based on the quality requirement.
The operation categories involved in the in-line pressing of jackets can be categorized into front, back, sleeve, shoulder, collar/lapel and hem sections. Each category can be further broken down to micro level of small parts involved.
The technological solutions are categorized into three types:
Type 1: Specialized ironing table for the operation.
Type 2: Separate bucks installed on separate machines for the left and right side of the part.
Type 3: Two separate bucks one each for right and left side of the jacket, mounted on the same machine capable of completing the operation for right and left side together.
Before proceeding to discuss the feature of in-line pressing technologies, it is important to understand various parameters which govern finishing and pressing operations.
Steam makes the fabric nimble and memory recipient for any crease removal or crease formation, pressure is important for physical deformation or formation of shape, vacuum helps in placing and retaining garment part on a surface without displacement, temperature is important in imparting crease removal or crease formation, air flow keeps components floating to avoid impression and helps components get rid of excess moisture. Each and every parameter has specific role and complement each other and one can’t be used to supplement the other, for example, higher temperature cannot supplement lower pressure, and so on.
Buck is a three-dimensional cloth covered surface made in accordance to the shape of the garment part which needs pressing. It is either in complex concave or convex shape. The lower buck surface is generally in convex shape and called male buck, the upper or head buck is exact reverse concave shape of lower buck and called female buck.
Discussed below in detail are in-line pressing of various parts, the different bucks used and the precautions needed for perfect finishing of each part:
Front
In-line pressing of front involves pressing of pocket flaps, breast welt, iron breast darts and side seams/iron out darts and side part seam, pressing left and right front, Ironing lining pockets and lining body, and ironing edge seams.
Machines required for pressing of pocket flaps is basically a small part pressing machine with added flexibility to accommodate blowing and vacuum function.
Ironing of breast welt is done in electro-pneumatic workstation with dies and pressing station including steaming device. The machine comes with one complete set of moulds, electrically heated upper and lower plates, steaming lower plate, adjustable pressing pressure for simultaneous execution of fusing, forming, pre-pressing and final pressing of breast pocket edges.
Front-pressing machine comes with a linear moving frame in which the entire table slides forward to facilitate easy access to the leading area and complete visibility for the operator. The slide-out mechanism of the buck-mounted table eliminates obstruction in the loading area during positioning of jackets, bearing no chance of heat radiation to the operator. Here, steam edge suction is critical to prevent damage to previously finished pressing areas during the pressing process, since the steam released when both bucks are pressed together tend to leak over onto other already pressed parts, spoiling the setting; edge suction restricts heat within the confined area of operations.
For pressing of breast darts and side seams, the table comes with a special ironing surface with slit for chest to prevent damage to the chest area. The optimal separate stacking of left and right front parts increases productivity.
Ironing of edge seams require special pressing table to iron out edge seams and comes in a one buck shape as standard with the option of two buck shapes.
Generally the vacuum enables better positioning of the parts followed by blowing in the lower shape and steaming in the upper shape for better forming. In some machines, steaming is present in both the lower and upper shape. Machines are also fitted with automatic pressure regulator, steaming, automatic ejector and collection of small parts, and automatic cycle start. Automatic pressure regulator can automatically increase or decrease pressure step wise during an operation cycle; automatic steaming can start/control/stop the release of steam during an operation cycle. Automatic ejector actually is a kind of mechanical stacker which automatically unloads the component after pressing cycle is over. Collection of small part is a mechanism where unloaded (ejected) small parts are collected/arranged in an organized sequential manner to be loaded in next operation.
Used majorly in front finishing machines are carousel-type machines with rotating bucks of mirror shapes and single vertical approaching head. In a carousel machine, there are multiple rotating lower bucks but only one upper buck. The operator places the garment component on the lower buck and presses the actuator (starting button), the lower buck rotates to another position where the upper buck vertically comes down and completes pressing. Once pressing is complete, the lower buck rotates for unloading, making room for second lower buck to come below the upper buck for pressing. Because of two lower bucks, time is saved on loading and unloading as pressing is happening simultaneously on the second buck, thus increasing productivity. Up-to-date and user-friendly touch screen programmer automatically controls the machine via individual programs.
Apart from operational ease these machines are often equipped with ergonomic features like gas spring height adjustment, productivity enhancement features like overlapping operation cycle and rapid exchange of template and safety features like an electronic safety guard device.
Shoulder
In-line pressing of shoulder section involves opening of shoulder seams and fusing shoulder pads.
Opening of shoulder seams is done by ironing and to achieve it are two small length lower bucks for placing right and left shoulder simultaneously, on placing the shoulder seam over the bucks, the iron is moved over the seams to open them manually. The bucks are steam heated, height and tilt adjustable, with or without air blow function and vacuum enabled for accurate positioning. Special buck design is available for straight or round shoulder contours or for special shaping of the shoulder-bone area.
Shoulder pad is first placed on the cylindrical shaped lower buck and jacket is placed over it. The lower back has vacuum system for accurate positioning. There are 4 head bucks and 2 lower bucks, including two-part head bucks for overlapping pressing and preventing displacement of the pressing good.
Circular closing of back part head prevents displacement of the back part, and linear closing of front part head prevents displacement of the front part.
There are separate sets of lower and upper bucks for pressing right and left side of jacket. The height of the machine is ergonomically adjustable and therefore provides a more efficient work place.
Collar and Lapel
In-line pressing of collar and lapel area involves ironing collar and lapel seams and pressing of front edges and lapel.
The table has special shaped stainless steel buck with integrated suction device. The buck heads are exchangeable for single breasted and double breasted jackets. The table also has lapel peak turner for turning the lapel peak after opening the jacket front edge, which increases productivity. The buck shapes are electrically heated and the height adjustment is managed by gas-operated balance device. Iron tip shape is specially designed for quick seam opening.
Front edge and lapel pressing machine has two separate units for right and left part and arranged in V-shape. The jacket front is placed on the specially shaped lower buck, holding clamp in the middle of the collar first engages to ensure correct positioning and no displacement. Lifting of the lower buck makes the positioning of the lapel area easier. Then upper buck comes down vertically to press the front edges and lapel. Variable adjustment of the distance values between the upper and lower bucks during the pressing process helps avoiding marks and shine on all types of fabric, can be set for lapel and facing separately.
Lapel head comes with optional pre-steaming, which allows corrections in the successive pressing of some overlapping parts, already pressed in a preceding operation and it is not possible to maintain millimetre accuracy in the preceding crease line. Step-less pressure regulation for upper and lower shape results in premium finish. Automatic unloading function after pressing is also available for increasing productivity. Ergonomically adjustable machine height and pedal height offers a comfortable workplace to operators. An up-to-date and user-friendly touch screen program panel automatically controls the machine via individual programs. Separate program selection switch allows quick change of programs during style change.
Sleeve
In-line pressing of sleeve involves ironing of sleeve head seams, ironing inner sleeve seam, ironing outer sleeve seam and ironing sleeve hem.
There are two separate steam heated bucks for left and right for ironing sleeve head seam. After joining of sleeves, the reverse side of the sleeve crown portion is placed on the bucks and sleeve head seam is ironed manually.
For ironing inner and outer sleeve hem there are separate pressing equipments from some brands and also single equipments to handle both inner and outer sleeve hem.
There are two narrow cylindrical mirror shaped bucks for right and left sleeve. The special buck construction ensures additional shaping effect of front seams. The low intensity/force suction in the bucks gives added flexibility when ironing different fabrics. Sleeves are inserted to the bucks and after seam lines are placed accurately using vacuum, the holding clamps are engaged.
There are two holding clamps each for right and left buck which ensures there is no displacement of material. First seam is pressed open manually by using iron, and then vertically closing top buck is engaged for seam finish. The upper buck movement is generally linear travelling frame which eliminates obstruction of the loading area during positioning, free visibility to the pressing good, no heat radiation to the operator.
Turtle shaped bucks are used for pressing open back sleeve seam and pre-pressing of the whole sleeve including sleeve hem and vent with already attached lining.
Edge of the buck has steam suction feature which helps in stopping leakage of steam around the buck perimeter, which otherwise may damage the previously pressed area. There are also optional unloading clamps for automatic disposal of the pressed piece thereby enhancing productivity.
Back
In-line pressing of back portion involves ironing centre back and side seam.
There are three narrow bucks; the buck in the centre is straight especially for centre back seam and two-shaped side bucks are for side seam pressing. First the back portion of the jacket is placed over the three bucks and the seam line is accurately placed over the bucks by use of vacuum.
Then seam lines are opened manually by an iron. Finally, a vertically closing upper buck presses all three seams in one go. While the separate suction in the three lower bucks facilitates better positioning, the vertically closing frame ensures even distribution of pressure onto the entire pressing surface and prevents displacement.
The upper buck movement is a linear travelling frame which eliminates obstruction of the loading area during positioning, free visibility to the pressing good, and no heat radiation to the operator. Air blowing in the lower buck and steaming in upper buck ensures no seam impression takes place.
Jacket Hem
Machine for pressing of jacket hems involves front and back portion, and comes with possibility to adjust three different widths of hems.
This is a flat pressing table long enough to accommodate the total perimeter of jacket hem. Jacket is kept flat open with holding clamps for right and left. The top buck is either one piece or four separate bucks, which is right for easier positioning of the part. The machine even has a separated positioning vacuum in which the vacuum can be activated/deactivated in different zones of the buck or table as required.
The machine can additionally be equipped with variable programmable insertion mode (sequence) for side vent, centre vent, without vent; and light line projectors (laser) for exact positioning of the parts, especially for checked fabrics.
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